Symmetric ears: Amigurumi Shape Planner

Make two flattened three-sector cone ears

This ear study uses four growth rounds and no additional even rounds. Each copy grows through six, nine, twelve and fifteen single crochets. Because fifteen is odd, one explicit reduction round decreases over the first two bases and works once in every remaining base, leaving fourteen. Its five rounds contain fifty-six outputs. The matched pair therefore requires 112, with two separate flat-edge closures after the crochet work.

Do not hide the odd-to-even adjustment

The fifteen-to-fourteen transition contains one decrease, not a six-sector reduction. Fourteen is then paired as one with fourteen, two with thirteen, continuing through seven with eight. Seven sewn pairs close each rim. Omitting the adjustment would leave one unpaired position at the edge; inventing a half stitch or gathering that leftover loop into a corner would create a different, undocumented finish.

Preserve a symmetric attachment edge

Keep the ears unstuffed and compare them flat after finishing. Mark the center pair of each seven-pair edge so they can later be positioned symmetrically on a separately planned head. The source chart shows the cone's actual increase bases and the single final decrease, while the loop view shows the same counted layers. Neither diagram supplies an automatic head attachment location or a guaranteed three-dimensional ear silhouette in every yarn.

Questions and likely mistakes

Why is there an extra round after growth?

The saved fifteen-position rim needs an even count before opposing pairs can be sewn. That adjustment is part of the pattern, not a hidden finishing shortcut.

Are these two rectangles folded in half?

No. They are separately crocheted cone shells, flattened only at the final rim.

Should I fill them like a head?

The specified ears remain unstuffed so the paired edges can lie together. Filling would change their behavior and attachment needs.

Where do they attach?

This case supplies a matched pair of ears. Plan a receiving head's actual rounds, symmetry and edge positions before sewing; no unlisted character construction is implied.

Exact setup, stitch key and complete sequence

Open the Amigurumi Shape Planner, choose ears, set growth rounds to 4 and even rounds or shaft length to 0. Download the exact original project JSON before editing it. Use smooth compatible yarn, a hook giving firm fabric, removable markers, suitable filling and a tapestry needle. The swatches identify component yarn roles; they do not assign a different yarn to every round unless a row explicitly says so.

In US terms, sc means single crochet, an increase works two sc in one old base and sc2tog consumes two bases to make one stitch. In UK mode those become dc and dc2tog without changing source coordinates or counts. Mark the first stitch of each separate spiral and move the marker after every completed circuit; do not add joining slip stitches or turning chains. Follow each part's own start, final rim and closure. Make the stated number of copies, then execute any separate attachment rows. Read the amigurumi shaping guide and compare the actual fabric after filling. The diagram is a counted construction reference; physical size, bend angle and finished suitability need a real sample. Finish every tail securely before handling the completed form.

Unwrapped component stitch maps — US termsSymmetric ears × 2; spiral rounds; no turnsSymmetric ears · Round 1: 6 sts · first working groupSymmetric ears R1, stitch 1; MRSymmetric ears R1, stitch 2; MRSymmetric ears R1, stitch 3; MRSymmetric ears R1, stitch 4; MRSymmetric ears R1, stitch 5; MRSymmetric ears · Round 1: 6 sts · final working groupSymmetric ears R1, stitch 6; MRR1: 6Symmetric ears · Round 2: 9 sts · first working groupSymmetric ears R2, stitch 1; R1S1Symmetric ears R2, stitch 2; R1S2Symmetric ears R2, stitch 3; R1S2Symmetric ears R2, stitch 4; R1S3Symmetric ears R2, stitch 5; R1S4Symmetric ears R2, stitch 6; R1S4Symmetric ears R2, stitch 7; R1S5Symmetric ears R2, stitch 8; R1S6Symmetric ears · Round 2: 9 sts · final working groupSymmetric ears R2, stitch 9; R1S6R2: 9Symmetric ears · Round 3: 12 sts · first working groupSymmetric ears R3, stitch 1; R2S1Symmetric ears R3, stitch 2; R2S2Symmetric ears R3, stitch 3; R2S3Symmetric ears R3, stitch 4; R2S3Symmetric ears R3, stitch 5; R2S4Symmetric ears R3, stitch 6; R2S5Symmetric ears R3, stitch 7; R2S6Symmetric ears R3, stitch 8; R2S6Symmetric ears R3, stitch 9; R2S7Symmetric ears R3, stitch 10; R2S8Symmetric ears R3, stitch 11; R2S9Symmetric ears · Round 3: 12 sts · final working groupSymmetric ears R3, stitch 12; R2S9R3: 12Symmetric ears · Round 4: 15 sts · first working groupSymmetric ears R4, stitch 1; R3S1Symmetric ears R4, stitch 2; R3S2Symmetric ears R4, stitch 3; R3S3Symmetric ears R4, stitch 4; R3S4Symmetric ears R4, stitch 5; R3S4Symmetric ears R4, stitch 6; R3S5Symmetric ears R4, stitch 7; R3S6Symmetric ears R4, stitch 8; R3S7Symmetric ears R4, stitch 9; R3S8Symmetric ears R4, stitch 10; R3S8Symmetric ears R4, stitch 11; R3S9Symmetric ears R4, stitch 12; R3S10Symmetric ears R4, stitch 13; R3S11Symmetric ears R4, stitch 14; R3S12Symmetric ears · Round 4: 15 sts · final working groupSymmetric ears R4, stitch 15; R3S12R4: 15Symmetric ears · Round 5: 14 sts · first working groupSymmetric ears R5, stitch 1; R4S1 + R4S2Symmetric ears R5, stitch 2; R4S3Symmetric ears R5, stitch 3; R4S4Symmetric ears R5, stitch 4; R4S5Symmetric ears R5, stitch 5; R4S6Symmetric ears R5, stitch 6; R4S7Symmetric ears R5, stitch 7; R4S8Symmetric ears R5, stitch 8; R4S9Symmetric ears R5, stitch 9; R4S10Symmetric ears R5, stitch 10; R4S11Symmetric ears R5, stitch 11; R4S12Symmetric ears R5, stitch 12; R4S13Symmetric ears R5, stitch 13; R4S14Symmetric ears · Round 5: 14 sts · final working groupSymmetric ears R5, stitch 14; R4S15R5: 14Left to right from each coral marker; ends meet around the part. Do not turn.X = US sc / UK dc. Two source lines meet at a decrease. Follow written finishes.Yarn 1: #678591Component connections and closure referencesSymmetric ears 1Sew opposing rim pairs · last 14 stsSymmetric ears 2Sew opposing rim pairs · last 14 stsConnection graph only; locate exact part rounds and attachment pairs in linked instructions.Working order · USSTART Symmetric ears · Round 1 ↻ · 6 stsSymmetric ears · Round 2 ↻ · 9 stsSymmetric ears · Round 3 ↻ · 12 stsSymmetric ears · Round 4 ↻ · 15 stsEND Symmetric ears · Round 5 ↻ · 14 stsBlue marker = first group; dashed = last group.Read chain / join / repeat details in linked steps.

Every worked round and attachment step

  1. Symmetric ears (make 2), round 1, base yarn #678591: Magic ring: ch 1 (not counted), 6 sc. Mark first stitch and continue in a spiral; do not join or turn. [6 outputs per copy]
  2. Symmetric ears (make 2), round 2, base yarn #678591: Repeat [1 sc, 2 sc in next stitch] 3 times. Each increase makes two stitches in one old base. [9 outputs per copy]
  3. Symmetric ears (make 2), round 3, base yarn #678591: Repeat [2 sc, 2 sc in next stitch] 3 times. Each increase makes two stitches in one old base. [12 outputs per copy]
  4. Symmetric ears (make 2), round 4, base yarn #678591: Repeat [3 sc, 2 sc in next stitch] 3 times. Each increase makes two stitches in one old base. [15 outputs per copy]
  5. Symmetric ears (make 2), round 5, base yarn #678591: Sc2tog over the first two stitches, then sc once in each remaining old stitch. This single reduction makes the rim even for pairing. Fasten off with a sewing tail. Flatten the open 14-stitch rim, pair stitches 1 with 14, 2 with 13, and continue for 7 pairs. Sew each pair once without adding a crochet round; conceal the tail securely. [14 outputs per copy]
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